Technically, I am still on vacation as school doesn’t start for a few weeks yet. Realistically, my summer is kinda of over as the work at the school is heading into it’s third week. We’re planning for one last gasp of a trip to Manitoulin next week, a four day ride which will be not nearly long enough.
But we did get away, for a reprise of the Great Lakes Circle Tour that we did about 10 years ago:

1: Sudbury/Tyson Lake
The trip started off with a very definite family orientation. My younger brother and his family were visiting from Calgary, and we all went up to Sudbury to hang out with our older brother and his family.
Have I mentioned how much I enjoy being around my family? We all had a great time at my nephew’s cottage, swimming and tubing and generally goofing around. I spent as much time as I could with my two nieces, who I haven’t seen in two years. Molly is 7 now, and Mia (short for Amelia, long story) is 5. I really admire my brother and his wife for letting the kids be the people they want to be…it must be frustrating as hell, but here are two little girls who are not going to be led down the garden path.


They have very different approaches – one will just look at you and say “no”, and unless you can come up with a really good reason why she should change her mind, the no stands.
The other will look like she’s agreeing with you, but will dance off to go sing and pick flowers, which is what she wanted to do in the first place.
Don’t get me wrong, they are not bratty about it. They are both cheerful and helpful and wonderful. But neither are pushovers, and I like that.
2: Red Rock
After the family gathering broke up, we headed west and checked out the Red Rock Inn, about a half hour before Thunder Bay. It was recommended to us by a biker friend of Keith’s, and why not, the website looked good. I read some of the reviews on tripadvisor.com which said that the website was misleading, it didn’t look that good at all. One review even said it had a bit of a Shining feel to it.
Sign me up.
The reality of the place is that it’s an old building with a past. It’s been a lot of things since it was built in 1937: a dorm for the paper plant workers, a POW residence in WW2, a community centre and now it’s an inn. The look of the place is a bit like my Grandma in her makeup – looks crisp from a distance, but upon a closer look, the fresh paint really doesn’t hide the cracks and lines. The history is palpable.
Yes, the place is a little tired-looking and the wi-fi spotty at best, but it was clean, creaky and fun to explore. The couple running it were incredibly friendly, and directed us to the Walleye Fish Fry that the Fish and Game Club was putting on. It reminded me of social events in the small town where I grew up, people greeting each other and catching up, kids running around, the sound of old country & western coming through a vintage PA system, lots of smiles and laughter. Add in a dinner of fried walleye with homemade salads followed by a walk around the marina to work some of it off, and you’ve got a definite win of an evening.
3: Betty’s Pies and the Odd Motel
We like pie. So how could we resist a place called Betty”s pies? We can’t.
We ran across Betty’s Pies when we did the Circle Tour before, and the memory of it stuck with us. It was such a good memory that when we figuring out where to go for the summer road trip, “We could have pie at Betty’s” was one of the deciding factors.
The day worked out that we got there for dinner after a sunny day of riding along Lake Superior. It did not disappoint; the beef pastie and banana cream pie were good enough to make sure we go back there next time we do the Circle Tour.
As we finished the pie, we talked about where to stay the night. We could stay close to Two Harbours (so we could go back to Betty’s for breakfast!), but going through Duluth during the early quiet of a Saturday morning was attractive. We pushed on and found the Beach View Motel, or as we now call it, the Odd Motel. The motel was run down, but clean, and our room had a killer view. Our stay there was filled with interesting characters and the night had a slightly surreal twist to it, enough so that the night is a story all on it’s own.

View from the Odd Motel
4: Houghton and the UP

The place was anything but a Down-ner
There was a tentative plan to stop and see Drizz, but thanks to construction in Duluth/Superior (detours, bad signage, wrong ways taken, oh, and I laid the bike down in gravel, yay), we found ourselves going east (by a lot) rather than south. We headed to the Upper Peninsula instead.
We got to Houghton around dinner time and decided to stay the night at the Downtowner, a motel right beside the river with two big decks overlooking the water. We wandered though this very pretty town, taking shots of the old cinema and other buildings before we had dinner at a seafood place. We sat on the motel deck after, reading and watching the sun go down while I sipped on a local brew. Definitely a life is good moment.
The next day was nothing short of brilliant with perfect weather, great roads, and coffee stops on sandy beaches where I could kick off the boots and wade. And what’s a trip to the UP without a visit to the Gay Bar?
There was one holy shit moment as we were riding along the narrow road that twisted along the shoreline – I was in the lead and scared three crows off of something on the side of the road and one veered into my path. I swear a trailing wing feather brushed my helmet.
5: Right place, right time
We missed Drizz, and we were this -> <- close to being in the same town as Bloody P (missed by about 4 hours!), but we were able to connect with Dr Chako and The Wife while they were in Thorpe for a family event. It was all too brief, that hour chatting over morning coffee, but I was able to get some long blogger hugs that will tide me over until December.
6: Bloggers!

OhCaptain and OhCountess
Speaking of bloggers, a HUGE thanks to OhCaptain and OhCountess! Not only did the put us up for a couple of nights, but they took time off work and showed us around Rochester and the Mayo Clinic. Honestly, we had no idea that the Mayo was that big!
We really enjoyed hanging out, catching up and playing with the kids. Guys, thank you again for opening up your home to us…you are awesome!
7: House on the Rock
I’ve wanted to go to the House on the Rock ever since I first read about it in Neil Gaiman’s American Gods, and visiting it figured large in the plans and routing that Keith worked on.
I’ve been staring at the monitor for 10 minutes trying to think of how to summarize the House on the Rock. I can’t. Like the Odd Motel, this place is a story all by itself. It’s bizarre and dark and noisy and filled with weird stuff thrown together in the most curious way. We were sitting watching a wall of animatronic figures perform the Mikado when Keith said “can you image seeing all this on acid?”. I laughed and said that this place was making me feel like I was on acid.
We got there late, so were only able to get through two of the three tours (they recommend four hours minimum for the whole thing). Two things that really stand out in my mind are the Infinity Room and the Carousel. Holy FSM, the Carousel…we sat in the Carousel Room for about 20 minutes trying to take it all in and failing.

Infinity Room

Carousel - this does not do it justice
8: Pie!
We were up around Northport, MI, and looking for a place to have a picnic and coffee. We’d set our sights on the park at the Lighthouse, but decided against when the woman at the State Park entry kiosk said it would $10/vehicle to park.
Umm. No.
Keith mentioned seeing a sign about pie and lead back down to the farmer market. Cherry orchards lined the road on each side and sure enough, the market had two kinds of cherry pie, regular with crust and a cobbler style, but didn’t sell them by the piece. Crap.
I was getting ready to leave when Keith said, “I can fit the pie box in my tail bag”.
And that is how we found ourselves in lake-view lay-bys for the next few days, drinking coffee and eating a truly amazing cherry cobbler. Thank FSM, we’d packed forks.
9: M119 and pierogies
I’ve often written how we’ve found ourselves in amazing and delightful places, quite by accident. The happy accident of this trip was finding ourselves sitting in the garden at the Legs Inn, dining on delicious Polish food as we watched the sun set over Lake Michigan. We had ridden there along M119, a road that started with a sign that stated “narrow twisting road for 30 miles”, a wonderfully curvy, swervy road that went through tunnels of trees and along the lake shore. If you ride, you’ll understand the joy of that afternoon. If you’re not, I doubt I have words to explain it so you could.
10: fucking bridges
This is not a highlight.
I am getting really weary of this thing I have about bridges. It is detracting from my vacations, because every vacation on the bike means we have to go over a bridge somewhere. On this trip, it meant crossing the St. Clair River between Port Huron and Sarnia at the Blue Water Bridge.
I like looking at bridges; there is something majestic about the way they conquer empty space and connect two places.
That being said, there is also something about them that the reptile brain most definitely does not like. This is not right, it insists, it is too delicate, there is a flaw that will be triggered as we pass over it, the fencing is not high enough and we’ll go sailing over it if anything happens. My palms are sweating as I write this, just thinking about it.
WE’RE GONNA DIE! the reptile brain screams as I begin to ride over it.
Don’t be so fucking retarded, the conscious mind sneers…we’ll be fine as long as you don’t make us do anything stupid. It’s just a piece of pavement.
And that is what I am most afraid of, that the reptile brain will freak out and some day do something stupid. And since I would like to not do that, I’m going to go and see someone about it before next year’s trip.